Day Sixty: A taste of Ancient Constantinople (Part 2)

Hello everyone! Sorry it's been a few days since I've posted, and I apologise for keeping everyone in suspense. We've been in Paris and I've had no internet access, so without further ado, here's more of Turkey! You last were with us in the streets of Istanbul, surrounded by fellow tourists viewing some of the most wonderful historical architecture that this city has to offer. We were on our way to a bank machine when we had stumbled upon the Basilica Cistern.

The Basilica Cistern is the largest of several hundred ancient cisterns that lie beneath the city. It was built in the 6th century during the reign of Byzantine Emperor Justinian I, who was the same man who built Aya Sofya. The name of this underground structure comes from a large public square on the First Hill of Constantinople, the Stoa Basilica, beneath which it was originally constructed.
The ceiling of the Cistern is supported by a forest of 336 marble columns, each 30 feet high. They are very interesting to look at because many of them are different from each other. Apparently, columns and bases foraged from all over the empire (nations that were overtaken by the Emperor) were used in this underground structure. The most notable of these columns include a single column that is engraved with raised pictures of a Hen's Eye, slanted branches, and tears. Apparently, the tears on the column pay tribute to the hundreds of slaves who died during the construction of the Cistern.

Some other interesting columns are located in the back of the cistern. The bases of these two columns reuse blocks carved as the head of Medusa. No one knows where the blocks came from, but people think that the heads were brought to the cistern after being removed from Roman-period building. The story goes that the blocks are oriented sideways and upside down in order to neutralize the power of the Gorgons' gaze, but it could very well just be because they fit better that way! I like to think the former rather than the latter, but that’s just because I have a thing for ancient mythology.

The cistern has a pretty cool history. It was eventually closed, and evidently forgotten, until 1545 when scholar Petrus Gyllius entered the scene. He was doing research on Byzantine antiquities in the city when locals told him that they were able to procure water, and sometimes even fish, by lowering buckets through holes in their basement floors. Eventually, Gyllius found a house that gained him access to the cistern. No one had even known it was there! However, the Ottomans started using the cistern as a dumping ground for garbage and even dead bodies. Fortunately, the 20th century saw it cleaned up and restored and opened for public viewing in the 80’s. Oh, and it was also featured in the James Bond movie, “From Russia With Love”.

Rob and I both enjoyed the cistern very much, it has a completely different feel down there than the hustle-bustle on street level. We were, however, still in need of some cash for admittance to the Aya Sofya. We found an ATM, grabbed some money, bought some Simit bread to share on our walk, and finally found ourselves inside the famous cathedral.

Actually, I’m not quite sure what to call the building. It was built as a cathedral originally, of course, as Justinian I wanted to build a structure that would put Constantinople on the map as “the second Rome”. Islamic culture has now seeped into it, however, as many of the original mosaics of Christian iconography had been plastered over, and huge, round shield-like banners have been installed with Islamic creeds on them. All crosses have been removed, as well.



The Aya Sofya has had a long and tumultuous history. From the date of its dedication in 360 until 1453, it served as the cathedral of Constantinople, except between 1204 and 1261, when it was the cathedral of the Latin Empire. The building was a mosque from 29 May 1453 until 1934, when it was secularized. It was opened as a museum on 1 February 1935. I choose to look at it as a building to glorify God, even if the politics have muddled the appearance and the message a little. Because Aya Sofya is now considered a secular building, (which means it is not used in any capacity for organized worship) the upkeep bill can now be passed on to the Turkish government instead of restoration being dependent on the pocket books of the patrons of a congregation (Christian, Muslim or otherwise)

And restoration is definitely needed. It’s an absolutely massive building, truly a spectacular thing to see. To me, it inspired many of the same emotions as the Dom in Cologne, Germany. It is absolutely majestic inside. Every corner has a story and a piece of history has taken place all through its halls. Richard the Lionheart visited here during the Crusades. It was sacked by the Latin Crusaders in 1204 and again in 1453 when Sultan Mehmed laid siege to Constantinople, driven in part by a desire to convert the city to Islam. However, the building still remains a testament to its original purpose.



The restoration program that is taking place here is truly a project of staggering magnitude. The cathedral has gone through so many sackings and refurbishments in the past (both of which have changed the interior dramatically), that it’s hard to know WHAT to restore the building TO. One very interesting feature to look at are the mosaics that are very meticulously being revealed through layers of plaster in the upper galleries of the building. These include images of Jesus, John the Baptist, Mary, the angel Gabriel, and also political figures like the emperors of the time (Costantine, Justinian I, etc)

May favourite part was the upper gallery, where we could prop ourselves up against the railing and bask in the awe-inspiring magnitude of the space. The arches and domes create a wonderful, organic environment with beautifully painted patterns all over the walls. Your eyes were truly drawn around the huge building, stopping occasionally on interesting details that popped out at you.

On our way out, we found what looked like a deep hole in the wall. We saw people turning their thumbs in it, which we thought was odd. Apparently, this is the Weeping Hole, and it’s believed that turning your thumb in the Weeping Hole will grant you healing. If the thumb comes out damp, the healing will be bestowed on you. Of course, I don’t believe in things like that, but it was fun to be a part of it anyway. Too bad my finger came out dry, I could really have done with a full stomach right then! Hunger is an ailment that requires healing, isn’t it?